[Apologies for the long absence. Work has been kicking my ass lately, and after a few weeks it becomes hard to work up the blogging momentum. Anyway, I’m back now. ]

Ah, Paris! One of the world’s most legendary cities, along with New York and London, and definitely the most picturesque of the three. Millions of people flock there every year to visit famous monuments, take long walks along the Seine during a warm afternoon and then move on to one of its many bistros or even one of its mythical drinking establishments for dinner and a couple of drinks.

However, it’s not always summer in Paris, and the winter can be harsh. So harsh, in fact, that the quintessentially wintry Sidecar is a Parisian creation.

Hailing from the 1920s, when prohibition still held the U.S. in its claws, this mix of brandy, triple sec and lemon juice was reputedly created at either Harry’s New York Bar or at the Paris Ritz, both great old establishments. A regular customer, the story goes, walked in one evening chilled to the bone due to foolishly mixing a Paris winter night and a ride in a motorbike. Apparently, this was the first thing the bartender came up with, and he named it Sidecar after the customer’s vehicle of choice.

Whether this is true or not, it’s really a great drink and deservedly one of the classics.

Recipe:

1 1/2 oz. Brandy
1 oz. Cointreau
1/2 oz. Lemon juice

Shake and strain into a sugar-rimmed cocktail glass.

Notes:

This recipe allows for some experimentation with the ratios given. I’ve given you the 3-2-1 (3 parts brandy - 2 parts Cointreau - 1 part lemon juice) recipe in Gary Regan’s Joy of Mixology, because it’s the one I’ve been using lately, but other common ratios are 2-1-1 and 4-2-1. I find this version keeps the sourness of the drink under control, and the flavours are quite neatly balanced, but your tastes may vary.

If you can’t be bothered with the sugar rim, you can add a quarter-ounce or so of simple syrup to the mix. It’s not quite the same, but it works well.

Rating:

- I hate the winter, but one or two of these can make a cold day bearable.

It’s been a crazy week weather-wise here in Madrid. The end of the summer has brought a great unpredictability in the weather, and conditions are changing drastically from one day to the next. I’m tempted to say it’s all because of global warming, which would allow me to indulge in the popular hobby of blaming politicians, but Madrid has always been like this at the beginning of autumn (or fall, for those of the American persuasion), so I’ll just enjoy the good days in preparation for the winter.

On one of the warmer days we’ve had this week I found myself looking for something refreshing and new, and while browsing books I found just the thing in David Wondrich’s Killer Cocktails. While conjuring up images of people in comedy moustaches wearing suits and ties at the height of a New York summer, Wondrich introduces us to the Roof Garden Cooler, a drink invented at the Waldorf Hotel in the early twentieth century and designed to keep you cool despite the feeling of being wrapped in a carpet and thrown into an oven.

It’s a very nice tipple on its own merits, and is even more admirable when you consider it’s nothing more than a glorified wine cooler. It’s not too strong, using only vermouth as the alcoholic component, so you can engage in the activity of cooling yourself down without worrying too much about nasty side-effects. Hell, even my wife liked it, so I really can’t fault it.

Recipe:

2 oz. dry Vermouth
1 oz. Lime juice
1/4 -1/2 oz. Simple Syrup (original recipe states 1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar)
1 dash Angostura Bitters
Ginger Ale

Combine all ingredients in a glass, stirring until the sugar is dissolved if you haven’t used simple syrup. Add a few ice cubes and top with ginger ale.

Notes:

There really isn’t much to say, this drink is not too complex, apart from what the vermouth brings to the table.

I was surprised at how refreshing it was without any shaking or crushed ice in sight. Usually a built drink warms up relatively quickly, since it was never as cold to begin with. This one didn’t last long enough for that, though…

Rating:

- Don’t bother being traditional, you can have one while enjoying the air-conditioning.

The Japanese Cocktail was one of the first drinks I read about on Drinkboy when I started getting beyond Rum ‘n’ Cokes and Long Island Iced Teas. Before I had even seen the recipe, my head was brimming with ideas. Would it use sake? Soy sauce instead of bitters? Maybe it had a piece of raw fish floating in it as garnish. Perhaps you had to drink it barefoot and sitting cross-legged on the ground to get the full taste of the experience.

The truth was far more mundane. As the page loaded I saw three simple ingredients, one of which I had never even heard of before. The mystery ingredient, Orgeat syrup, revealed itself to be unobtainable in my part of the world, so I just clicked on the back button and moved on to something else.

The name stuck in my mind, though, and every now and then I’d see references to it, look it up, see I still didn’t have any Orgeat, and again mix up something else. Until today, when I came across a mention of it as well as a pointer to a post by Robert Hess over at The Spirit World where he goes over the Japanese Cocktail in his usual authoritative style. After the usual click through to remind myself of the ingredients, I realized that it was finally possible to mix one up.

After a summer of basically drinking light citrus-based drinks, I wasn’t too sure how well a classical-style cocktail would go down. I needn’t have worried, the Japanese Cocktail is quite refreshing for a drink that is basically brandy. What really surprised me was how well balanced it is, and how tasty such a simple drink can get. I have to admit, Orgeat is quickly becoming a favourite ingredient of mine.

The link above outlines what little is known about the Japanese Cocktail’s history. Basically, not much. It is one of the cocktails included in Jerry Thomas‘ classic Bartender’s Guide (or How to Mix Drinks). Some theorize that it was created by Jerry Thomas himself in honour of a delegation of Japanese dignitaries that visited the US at some point, but nothing is known for sure.

Here’s how to make one.

Recipe:

2 oz. Brandy
1/2 oz. Sirop d’Orgeat
2 dashes Angostura Bitters

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Notes:

A masterfully balanced drink, one of the best I’ve had in a long time. The Orgeat brings the drink to life, without overpowering the flavour of the brandy. You don’t want to skip the garnish in this one, and should make sure to twist the lemon on top of the glass — as opposed to using a pre-made twist — so all the essential oils get sprayed onto the surface of the drink. This adds an additional dimension.

I was expecting a serious drink, but this one is lots of fun.

Rating:

- Better than sake with a piece of fish in it!

I first saw this drink mentioned on Beachbum Berry’s blog over a month ago, and had been intrigued by it until a few days ago, when I finally got my hands on some allspice and made the requisite syrup. I have to say it is very good. So good, in fact, that it made me ponder the adequacy of my rating system.

You see, a four-star drink has to be like a friend who is always there for you no matter what. That means, apart from tasting great, it has to be easy to make and have ingredients I am likely to have around the house. The rating system is very clear — rare ingredients or difficult methods get you two stars.

The ingredient list is where the Navy Grog falters. It uses something called Grog Mix, which is an allspice syrup you pretty much have to make yourself. The directions are simple, according to the Bum:

Grind enough whole dried allspice berries to make 6 level tablespoons. Place the ground allspice in a saucepan with 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water. Bring it all to a boil, then cover and simmer for two minutes. Remove the saucepan from heat and — keeping it covered — let steep for two to three hours, then strain into a bottle and refrigerate.

No matter how simple-to-make an ingredient is, it remains an added complexity. This is especially true for me because I’m so lazy when it comes to making these things, hell, I don’t even have any simple syrup usually.

The resulting drink, however, is really something. The allspice is very prominent and unlike anything I’d ever tasted before in a glass. It works wonders with the robust rums in the mix, and makes the entire experience very satisfying. I recommend you make yourself one right away, or as soon as you’ve mixed up some Grog Mix.

Recipe:

1 oz. dark Jamaican Rum
1 oz. Demerara Rum
3/4 oz. Lime juice
1/2 oz. Grapefruit juice
3/4 oz. Grog Mix

Shake everything together briskly with plenty of crushed ice and pour into a double old-fashioned glass.

Notes:

Demerara rum is impossible to find here in Spain, so I ended up just substituting it for a completely different rum, to see what the effect was. I used Cruzan gold rum, which is new round these parts, and the result was quite decent.

Rating:

- If I make Grog Mix on a regular basis, it’s no longer a difficult-to-find ingredient, right? Right??

On a quiet summer afternoon, there is nothing better than a refreshing, unpretentious drink to cool body and mind. The Horse’s Neck is definitely one of these. Simple to make, it also has that little bit extra flavour-wise that makes an interesting drink.

In it’s essence, the Horse’s Neck is just a normal long drink — booze and mixer. However, there are a couple of unusual features. For starters, it calls for brandy, a spirit that is usually taken straight. There is a good reason for this, since the nuances of brandy are usually lost if mixed with something as intense as Coke.

However, we’ll be mixing the brandy with ginger ale, a much gentler mixer generally. Note that using a strong ginger beer would probably ruin the drink altogether, the weak Schweppes-like stuff is what we’re after here.

Finally, the Horse’s Neck calls for a dash or two of Angostura bitters. The bitters make this drink, enhancing and combining with the brandy like a pinch of salt can make or break a meal. Removing the bitters makes this just another mixed drink, and using rum or bourbon instead of brandy just isn’t the same.

Recipe:

2 oz. Brandy
1 or 2 dashes Angostura bitters
fill with Ginger Ale

Build in the order given in a tall glass over plenty of ice.

Notes:

I always use spanish brandy. If I’m looking for a French Cognac-like brandy, I’ll use one of the bottlings from the Catalunya region in north-east Spain. However, I usually use sherry brandy, from the southern province of Cádiz, and this drink is no exception. I find that the additional sherry flavours work very well.

Also, I like to be liberal with the bitters, but your personal preference may differ…

Rating:

- One of my summer favourites.

If you read the About page on this blog, you’ll see that part of the original idea was to index and categorize a bunch of recipes for my own access. Last night I was entertaining and realized that the blog is sadly empty of the classics, so for at least a couple of weeks I’ll be putting up some classic cocktails. If you’re new to cocktails, these are drinks you have to try. If you’re a seasoned mixologist, how long has it been since you had one?

I’ll start with the Manhattan, my favourite drink. I can’t really point out why, but there isn’t any other drink which is quite the same. It’s all a matter of taste, I suppose.

As to the origins, nobody knows for sure who the inventor was. Although various similar recipes had been around for decades under the name Manhattan, the current incarnation became well known in the early 1870’s, when it was served at a banquet held at the Manhattan Club, in New York. This event marked the current recipe as the Manhattan cocktail.

Recipe:

2 oz. Rye Whiskey or Bourbon
1 oz. Italian Vermouth
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
Garnish with Maraschino Cherry

Stir the ingredients until ice-cold, and pour into a cocktail glass. Add the cherry and enjoy

Notes:

A drink that never lets me down and is a faithful standby when in doubt. Rye whiskey is difficult to come by here, so it’s usually a Bourbon drink for me. Also, the proportions are not set in stone, and people have different preferences. Personally, I like the vermouth to shine through, making the drink slightly sweeter.

Finally, some people add a little of the liquid in the cherry jar for sweetness. If I do it, it’s never more than a teaspoon.

Rating:

- Perfection in a glass.

Not your standard rum’n'coke, a properly made Cuba Libre has fresh ingredients, fine booze and balance. Indeed, it is a refreshing drink to be sipped and enjoyed, not just another alcohol-delivery mechanism for teenagers.

As with any good drink, nobody is sure how the name came about. There is no denying that Cuba Libre! was a popular expression both during and after Fidel Castro’s communist revolution. Some say that the name is derived from its two main ingredients, Cuba referring to the rum and Libre (or Free) referring to the American Coca-Cola.

Either way, the ingredient everyone always forgets, and that elevates a proper Cuba Libre beyond being just another common drink, is Lime juice. Just a little, in combination with respecting the proportions of rum-to-Coke, goes a long way. Once you’ve tried it properly made, you won’t go back.

Also, you should use a gold or dark rum for this. The flavour of a light rum won’t really make it through the Coke. Cuban rum is always more authentic, but one of my rum taste-tests is always the Cuba-Libre so I’ll try anything. For a good dark Cuban rum, try Havana Club 7-year-old, or Matusalén. The original was probably made with Bacardi, and even though Bacardi is no longer cuban, their 8-year-old is also nice.

Finally, use classic Coke. All the other varieties (especially Diet Coke) taste strange and not what you’re after at all.

This has been the final installment in cuban classics but for the next few days I’ll probably keep writing about summer standards. Stay tuned!

Recipe:

2 oz. gold or dark Rum
1/2 oz. Lime juice
6 oz. Coca-Cola

Rub the rim of a tall glass with the peel of a lime wedge. Fill it with ice, and pour in the rum followed by the Coke. Squeeze in the juice from a couple of lime wedges, and drop one into the glass.

Notes:

There isn’t really much to say, except that I recommend you try many different rums. But maybe not all of them on the same day… Also, you can vary the proportions to your liking, but try not to make the drink too strong or too weak, it will lose character.

Some recipes for the Cuba Libre include Gin, although I don’t know where that idea came from. You can try it if you like, about half as much gin as rum, it’s not unpleasant.

Rating:

- Well made, it’s always a great drink.

More popularly known as a White Russian, this drink was made popular for many people by its inclusion in the film The Big Lebowski. The main character, known as the Dude and masterfully played by Jeff Bridges, is seen drinking these constantly and to the exclusion of all else. In fact, we even see him mixing one up for breakfast. Now I don’t recommend going that far, but every time I watch that movie I mix one or two up just to get into the right mood.

The reason the I’ve chosen to post as Caucasian instead of White Russian is that at one point the Dude clearly requests “another caucasian” from the bartender at the bowling alley he and his friends patronize. Anyway, on with the recipe.

Recipe:

2 oz. Vodka
1 oz. Kahlúa
3 oz. Milk

Pour in order over ice and stir. Don’t bother too much about being precise with the measurements, it’s meant to be a quick fix.

Notes:

Tastes kind of like a coffee milkshake. I’ve taken the measurements from the breakfast scene, which I’m recalling from memory. Alter it to your taste, or you can find a recipe on the back label of a Kahlúa bottle.

Rating:

- I like it.

The summer is starting to take a hold around here, and that means I’ll be wheeling out some classic summer drinks. First up, hailing from the caribbean island of Cuba, is the Mojito.

The Mojito is probably the best-known cuban drink at the moment, since it has been fashionable for a couple of years now. The unashamed use of fresh mint is one of the reasons it stays in people’s minds, and the fact that it’s an authentic drink that actual cuban people drink makes it special. This last point is why I like to keep things as close to the original as possible. For that, we need the right ingredients.

First up is the rum. It must be cuban, and should be Havana Club Añejo 3-year-old. However, there are other cuban rums you can try.

The mint must be the hierbabuena type used in Cuba (and thankfully also the most prevalent here in Spain.) This mint has wider leaves and a lighter colour than the more common spearmint, and is more fragrant.

Finally, even though most sources omit it, I have it on good faith from people who have been to Cuba that cuban bartenders add Angostura Bitters to the Mojito. The recipe I’ve sourced comes from a cuban bartender on a spanish-language mailing list, so I’m reasonably confident it’s correct.

Recipe:

1 1/2 oz. White Rum (Havana Club 3-year-old is authentic)
1/2 oz. Lime juice
3 oz. Seltzer
2 fresh mint sprigs (about 8-10 leaves)
3 drops Angostura Bitters
1 tsp Sugar

Put the sugar in a glass and add the lime juice (about half a lime’s worth). Place one of the mint sprigs in the glass and muddle the mint well with the sugar. Add a little seltzer and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the rum, the lime hull and a few ice cubes, top up with seltzer and garnish with the remaining mint sprig. Finally, add the bitters carefully to the drink, without stirring.

Notes:

One of the quintessential cuban drinks, and a cocktail standard. Very fashionable lately, it doesn’t hurt that it’s one of the best summer drinks out there, in my opinion.

Rating:

- Four stars for a classic.

Sangria is a popular summer-time drink here in Spain. The basic ingredients are wine, sugar and fruit, but everyone makes their own version - that’s the beauty of it. Here is my favourite mix, and some modifiers.

Recipe:

base
1 bottle Red Wine (something cheap and fruity, I’ve had good results with Cabernet Sauvignon)
1 oz. Rum
1 oz. Brandy
2 oz. Bianco Vermouth
1 Apple
1 Orange
Sugar to taste

optional
lemon/lime or orange soda
cinnamon powder

First, cut the apple and orange into quarters or eighths, whichever you prefer. Then, in a large jug or bowl (depending on whether you want to pour or spoon) mix the wine with the sugar well. Once the sugar has dissolved, add plenty of ice, the booze and the fruit slices. Stir energetically to cool the mixture down.

Now you have a tasty sangria. Unfortunately, on a long hot afternoon, this will last you slightly less than an ice cube, and you’ll find yourself crawling instead of walking within the hour. That is why it is usually diluted with some sort of fizzy drink. For minimal flavour modification, use the lemon/lime soda, but orange or strong lemon flavour (like Schweppes) will also work and give you options to play with throughout the summer.

Finally, you can also add some cinnamon powder to the base mix for an exotic touch. I must admit that this option is favoured more by my wife than myself, but it’s interesting to try.

Rating:

- Four stars for an outstanding summer drink that works all year round in any unpretentious setting.